Remove the passenger-side fender liner. The screws (3 different metric sizes) that need to be removed are obvious. What isn't obvious are the 'Christmas tree' fasteners located at either end of the liner.
With the fender liner removed there is easy access to the right exhaust manifold.
Insert the O2 sensor and bolt the header in place. This header takes longer to install because the bolts are harder to get to.
Insert the driver's side O2 sensor and the Y-pipe. The Y-pipe doesn't fit perfectly, but is easily bolted to the headers.
The new Y-pipe gives more room to change the oil filter.
The catalytic converter had studs, so I didn't need the bolts included in the kit. The studs made it easier to line up the new Y-pipe.
Replace the crossmember and air intake, then fire the beast up. I had no leaks! I made sure there were no wires or hoses close to the headers. I replaced the fender liner after making sure there were no leaks. The headers took approximately 9 hours to install.
The Borla headers headers sound good idling. As I drive I'll report my impressions and findings.
The headers really make this motor come alive. I can feel the torque and horsepower increase. It'll lug up hills in overdrive at 1200-1300 rpm before upshifting. The passing power is awesome. My gas mileage has increased around 1/2 mpg. The header project was definitely worth doing. Make sure and disconnect the battery so your computer will 'learn' new settings with the headers.
Update April 2003 - The headers are still great. Lots of power. No leaks. No loose bolts. The motor pulls great even with the 35" tires I installed last summer. This is the best motor mod I've done.