The first step is to disconnect the battery cables. Safety first!! This takes a 5/16" wrench.
Remove the serpentine belt. This done by inserting a 1/2" drive into the idler pulley and releasing tension on the belt.
Unhook the electrical connections and unbolt the alternator. All bolts are 10mm. I took the opportunity to spray some paint on the unpainted parts of the engine.
The Mechman alternator drops right into place using the factory bolts. Notice the location of the new bracket.
Here is the constant-duty solenoid that connects the alternator to the auxiliary battery. It's located near the underhood fuse and relay center. Don't use a starter solenoid for this...it'll last about 30 seconds before it burns up.
I used 2-guage wire from the alternator to the auxilary battery relay. The wire from the relay to the auxiliary battery is also 2-guage. When dealing with high current use big wire...don't skimp!
Note: The Mechman instructions suggest using heavier cable to the battery...but they are assuming that the alternator is charging only one battery. My thinking is that the factory wiring is engineered for 130 amps since the factory alternator is rated at 130 amps. The 2-guage cable I'm using for auxilary battery is rated for 100+ amps, so I should be fine.
Here's an overview showing the new cable running from the alternator to the auxiliary battery relay.
All the connections are made to the new alternator.
It's hard to see the new cable once I covered it with ziploom. It looks factory, and it also protects the cable.
I used 2-gauge cable to ground the alternator to the frame. My auxiliary battery is also grounded to the frame.
And the verdict is...SUCCESS! 14.2 volts at idle with my lightbar, stereo, and air conditioning on. The factory alternator would be choking.